Paradise Found

One writer sets out on a scooter to experience the beauty and history of Bermuda.
Text and photos by Rebecca L. Rhoades

“Are you sure you’ll be okay on one of those?”

I had arrived at the Bridge House, my lodging in Bermuda for the next three days, just a few minutes before. The home’s manager, Fiona Robertson, had finished showing me my room, and as we stand on the brick street in front of the bed-and-breakfast chatting about things to do during my visit, I ask about where to park the scooter I would be renting. Her question catches me off guard.

I chuckle nervously. “I guess I’ll have to be.”

I’d heard the horror stories about renting a scooter on Bermuda—from tales of collisions caused by tourists forgetting to drive on the left side of the road to the most-dreaded of all Bermuda traffic threats: the roundabout.

But I’m not worried. On previous visits, I had traversed the island on foot, by bus and even on the back of a two-person scooter. This time, I am determined to take it all in from the comfort of my very own 50cc motor-assisted cycle.

“Have you ever driven one of these before?” the agent at Oleander Cycles asks as I sign the rental agreement, releasing the company from any legal liability should I end up a hood ornament on one of the island’s pink public buses.

“I had a [Yamaha] Razz when I was in college,” I answer confidently.

“Mmm hmm. A Razz, huh,” he chuckles. “Well, grab a helmet, and let’s get you on a bike.”

The practice lot turns out to be a small parking lot on Duke of York Street, the main thoroughfare in St. George’s. Rows of scooters, and a few cars, line the perimeter. The agent grabs a scooter, and after showing me how to turn it on and pointing out the necessary features (brakes, blinkers, lights), he hands me the keys.

I jump on and hit the ignition button. The engine slowly sputters to life. I gun the throttle, and the engine responds with a throaty roar. Encouraged, I release the brake—and shoot straight into the row of parked cycles. So much for my self-confidence.

With my ego severely bruised, I complete a few laps around the parking lot, when the agent suggests I’d do better out on the road. I roll slowly toward the sidewalk, wearily eyeing the oncoming vehicles. There is a break in traffic, and I’m off, black smoke belching from the scooter’s exhaust.

For environmental and safety reasons, rental cars are not allowed on Bermuda. In fact, Bermudian law allows for only one automobile per household. The entire country, an archipelago of more than 123 islands with 6 main islands—Ireland, Boaz, Somerset, Main, St. David’s and St. George’s—composing the contiguous mass commonly referred to as the singular Bermuda, is a mere 22 miles long and no more than a mile-and-a-half wide. With a population of more than 66,000, the added congestion of rental cars would be overwhelming. Taxis, buses and scooters are the main modes of transportation for tourists.

As I gather speed, I pass limestone cottages painted in an assortment of sherbet-hued pastels—robin’s egg blue, bubble gum pink, canary yellow and mint green. Their stepped white roofs, designed to catch the rain, contrast against the brilliant blue sky.

Mark Twain, who was a frequent visitor to these shores, wrote “Bermuda is the right country for a jaded man to ‘loaf’ in.” And as I make my way toward Fort St. Catherine, located on the northernmost tip of St. George’s Island, I notice a few ‘loafers’ at St. Catherine’s Beach. Most are relaxing under umbrellas, while small children frolic in the cerulean waters.

It was near this exact spot 400 years ago that a group of British settlers, originally bound for Jamestown, Virginia, ran aground on the reef during a ferocious storm. The ship’s admiral, Sir George Somers, claimed the land in England’s name. Today, a statue of Somers stands on Ordinance Island in the town that bears his name, St. George’s. In nearby Somer’s Garden, a marker notes the location where his heart is reputed to be buried.

Exploring the East End
The next morning, I head out on foot, wandering the serpentine lanes of St. George’s, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here streets have curious names like Needle and Thread Alley, Governor’s Walk and Old Maid’s Lane.

I take a breather from the scorching sun in the cool interior of St. Peter’s Church. Built in 1612, it is the oldest continually used Anglican church in the Western Hemisphere. Outside, amid fragrant passion flowers and frangipani, are two historic graveyards: one for white parishioners and a walled one for slaves and free blacks.

Back on two wheels and with my confidence partially restored, I travel east to Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve. Opened as a national park in May 2008, the area is Bermuda’s newest spot for bird watching and nature hikes. Visitors can enjoy walks along the rocky shores with stunning views of Castle Harbor and Nonsuch Island or down an inland trail that leads to a salt marsh. The reserve is also located across the street from Clearwater Beach and Turtle Bay, where families can relax after a long walk or enjoy some kid-friendly fun.

Leaving Cooper’s Island, I soon realize the main drawback to renting a scooter: I can’t drive and look at a map at the same time, and I’m quickly becoming lost (or as lost as a person can get on Bermuda). I’m trying to find Dennis’s Hideaway. Aptly named, the tiny house-cum-restaurant is hidden at the far end of Cashew City Road in St. David’s.

I find myself on a one-way road heading uphill toward St. David’s Lighthouse. At the top, I pull over to check my map when I am drawn to the sudden appearance of a rainbow on the horizon. I sit down in the grass to drink in its splendor.

When I finally locate Dennis’s, owner Graham Lamb (a.k.a. Sea Egg) apologizes for the day’s limited menu. “If I’d known you were coming, I would have made sure to have the works.” The “works” is a veritable feast of shark hash, conch fritters, mussel stew, conch stew, fish chowder, fried fish, conch steak, shark steak, shrimp and scallops for around $35. But I’m more than satisfied with the hearty bowl of fish chowder—its rich, almost tangy flavor is unlike any other chowder I’ve tried in Bermuda—and fresh fried fish.

Throughout dinner, Sea Egg and I chat about the restaurant, his father Dennis and island life. “My dad got his start making food to serve at cricket matches,” says Sea Egg. “Everybody loved his cooking.” In 1967, Dennis opened the Hideaway, and it quickly became a local favorite. Today, the building’s decidedly shabby appearance—from the rusted metal signs lining the driveway to the handmade tables and chairs to the dilapidated shutters—belies the quality meals that can still be had inside.

Almost three hours pass, and it’s now dark outside. I say goodbye to Sea Egg, who walks me to my scooter, and promise to return on my next visit to Bermuda.

Westward to the West End
If I’m going to obtain that ubiquitous scooter souvenir, road rash, on my third and final day, I’m certain it will be on the way to the Royal Naval Dockyard on the far western tip of Bermuda. Most of Bermuda’s roads are either lined with stone walls or edged with steep cliffs that give way to rocky shores. Slowly I putter along as buses and locals on scooters and motorcycles whiz by.

I take a break from the road at the South Shore’s famous pink beaches. The soft rose color comes not from the sand itself but from the remnants of coral and shells that are mixed in. On Warwick Long Bay, a single family prepares to go snorkeling, while nearby Horseshoe Bay beach is overrun with tourists and locals alike.

After driving past candy-colored villages, fishermen’s coves and miles of turquoise waters, I finally arrive at the dockyard. Once a major outpost of the British Royal Navy, the dockyard now plays host to a steady influx of cruise ships. Two are in port the day I visit.

And although sentries or shipbuilders no longer roam the grounds, the area is still a hub of activity. The former Keep is now the Bermuda Maritime Museum, where visitors can learn about Bermuda’s history or swim with dolphins at Dolphin Quest. The Royal Navy’s imposing administrative headquarters are now a shopping center, the Clocktower Mall. The Cooperage now houses the Bermuda Craft Market, and buildings previously used for storage and repair work are home to the Bermuda Clayworks, Bermuda Rum Cake Company and Dockyard Glassworks.

At the end of the day, I say goodbye to my trusty two-wheeled companion. I have survived three days unscathed, and while I can say they’re not for everyone, for those who are a little more adventurous, nothing beats a scooter as a fun and convenient method for exploring all that Bermuda has to offer.

The information in this story was accurate when it was published in the November/December 2009 issue of AAA World, but details such as dates, times and prices may have changed since then. We suggest you verify such details directly with the listed establishments before making travel plans.

Why Bermuda? Why Now?

Located just 640 miles off the coast of North Carolina, Bermuda is less than a two-hour flight from most cities in the Mid-Atlantic region. This makes it the perfect destination for just about any type of vacation, from a romantic two-week retreat to a long-weekend getaway. It’s also a popular cruise destination, and cruises long and short depart local home ports.

If you’ve never been to Bermuda, now is the time to go. Beginning in early November through March, the island enjoys mild temperatures (in the 60s and 70s). While it may be a bit cool for a dip in the ocean, it’s just right for a round of golf, strolling the beaches and parks, or enjoying a meal on your hotel’s balcony. And because the crowds disappear during this time, hotel prices decrease substantially.

Bermuda also celebrates its 400th anniversary in 2009. Although the year is almost over, there are still plenty of activities to enjoy. Early November brings the World Rugby Classic to the island, while Remembrance Day on the 11th will feature ceremonies and a parade in the island’s capital, Hamilton. In December, tour the historic buildings of St. George’s during the Bermuda National Trust Christmas Walkabout, and on the 12th, head back to Hamilton for the Christmas Boat Parade and the Official Bermuda 2009 Closing Ceremony.

For more information on Bermuda and its 400th anniversary, visit bermudatourism.com.

Must-Do Bermuda

You’ve been lured to Bermuda by promises of pink sand beaches and turquoise waters, but once here, you find yourself surprised by the overwhelming number of attractions and activities available. With just a few days to visit, what do you do? To help you choose, we’ve selected 10 of the island’s most popular tourist attractions. Now the only problem you should have is finding the time to fit them all in.

Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo (BAMZ) A leader in environmental education and conservation, BAMZ features more than 200 species of fishes and invertebrates and more than 300 birds, reptiles and mammals from oceanic islands.

The Bermuda Botanical Gardens This 36-acre site is the island’s largest public garden. Highlights include an impressive collection of orchids; the Garden for the Blind; and Camden, the official residence of Bermuda’s Premier.

Bermuda Perfumery Take a free tour at this island original (since 1928) to learn how its fragrances are made. Afterward, wander the fragrant gardens or pick up a unique souvenir that will remind you of your trip for months to come.

Commissioner’s House at the Bermuda Maritime Museum Don’t miss the Hall of History, a 1,000-square-foot mural that illustrates 500 years of Bermuda history. Created by local artist Graham Foster, the mural took three-and-a-half years and 7,000 hours of painting to complete.

Crystal/Fantasy Caves Discovered in 1904 by two boys searching for a lost cricket ball, these two caves offer stunning displays of stalactites, stalagmites and crystal-clear pools.

Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse It is said that sailors can see the beam of the lighthouse from up to 40 miles away. Climb the 185 steps, and you’ll see a 360-degree view of Bermuda.

Hamilton Stores The island’s capital is also a shopping mecca, and Front Street is its pièce de résistance. Inside pastel-colored buildings, you’ll find everything from Cuban cigars and Scottish tweeds to colorful Bermuda shorts and souvenirs.

South Shore beaches Bermuda is famous for its pink sand beaches, and no trip is complete without visiting at least one. Best bets include Elbow Beach, Warwick Long Bay, Jobson’s Cove and Horseshoe Bay.

Spittal Pond Nature Reserve The largest nature reserve in Bermuda at 64 acres, Spittal Pond is also the best bird-watching location. Permanent residents include mallard ducks, moorhens, herons, kisadees and white-eyed vireos, while the fall and winter months bring a multitude of shorebirds and waterfowl.

Swizzle Inn Stop by the island’s oldest and most famous pub, and sample Bermuda’s national drink: the Rum Swizzle made with Bermuda's own Gosling's Black Seal rum, fruit juice, bitters and grenadine.